Stupid Hat Day

When I woke this morning I knew this was no ordinary day. April 25th is the feast of St Mark, patron saint of Venice. The tradition is that every male capable of tottering to the flower market buys a red rose bud for his innamorata. This means bonanza earnings for the flower vendors because normal Italian men have at least three innamorate: Mama, Wife, and Lover, this last known colloquially as the 5-7, the hours within which she may expect a visit.
I always tell Mr F not to bother. I hate the rip-off prices and anyway, he buys me flowers every week of the year. Also, I know he doesn't have a 5-7 because I can vouch for his whereabouts during those hours: he's in the kitchen making dinner.
So today was a normal business day for us, with the continuing paperchase around Italian bureaucracy. We had to drive 40 km to another town to organise some documents. But wait...
As we drove into San DonĂ it was clear something was up. Shops were still shuttered. The government office we went to was closed. Market stalls were being set up selling things no one needs. Helium balloons, dried flower arrangements, meat-type products made out of unthinkable parts of the pig. It was a holiday.
What I couldn't work out was why they were celebrating St Mark in the city of St Donato. Then we heard the distant hrrrumpapa of a marching band and the daylight dawned. IT'S LIBERATION DAY!
The day when every right thinking Italian should give thanks to those Allied Forces who freed them at such high personal cost. Yeah. Right.
I saw no American or British flags. I heard only the Italian national anthem. Let me see, how does it go... 'Running, gotta keep on running...' But we watched the local great and good parade down to the war memorial. The Suits from the Town Hall, and the... ahem... military, in their operetta uniforms. No one does dumb-looking uniforms better than the Italians. They are fearless as lions when it comes to satin ribbon. The Alpinisti veterans were there in their cardigans and their jaunty little mountain-shaped hats. There were some dudes in rather fascist-looking high boots, a lot of Nikes, several token foulards in the national colours. The best though, no question, were the Bersaglieri. They are the guys who look as though a dead raven landed on their head. And now here's the thing. It turns out that those feathers are not dead raven at all. They are capercaillie feathers. So there.
See? On this blog you get information as well as fulmination.



